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WHERE YOUR HOLIDAY STARTS!
THE BALKANS
ALBANIA
Closed to outsiders for much of the 20th century, Albania has long been Mediterranean Europe's enigma. Until fairly recently its rumpled mountains, fortress towns and sparkling beaches were merely a rumour on most travel maps. But, with the end of a particularly brutal strain of communism in 1991, Albania tentatively swung open its gates.
The first curious tourists to arrive discovered a land where ancient codes of conduct still held sway and where the wind whistled through the shattered remnants of half-forgotten ancient Greek and Roman sites. A quarter of a century after throwing off the shackles of communism, Albania's stunning mountain scenery, crumbling castles, boisterous capital, and dreamy beaches rivalling any in the Mediterranean continue to enchant. But hurry here, because as word gets out about what Albania is hiding, the still -tiny trickle of tourists threatens to become a flood.
This forgotten country was once in the middle of great empires – Roman, Greek and Ottoman. Although staunchly communist, it escaped the clutches of the USSR and was instead ruled by its own Stalinist despot. The Accursed Mountains, once the land of blood feuds, rise up in the north, a haven for hikers and cyclists in summer and snow shoers in winter. Ottoman architecture tumbles down a hillside in the Town of a Thousand Windows, the bunker -dotted coastline is lapped by the Mediterranean. With Albanians clamouring to show guests the beauty of their country and culture, we’d put money on this secret not being kept for much longer.
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KOSOVO
Europe's newest country, Kosovo is a fascinating land at the heart of the Balkans rewarding visitors with welcoming smiles, charming mountain towns, incredible hiking opportunities and 13th-century domed Serbian monasteries brushed in medieval art – and that's just for starters.
If you want to understand Kosovo, look no further than its Olympic gold medal winner for judo, Majlinda Kelmendi. In the country’s Olympic debut in 2016, this 25 year old did her country proud by taking gold. A beautiful ball of energy, who has survived a war, she is a smiling, determined young woman, with mountain strength. Just like the country she represents. Because Kosovo is not only the newest country in Europe, but also has the youngest population, with over 70 percent under the age of 35. The cities are culturally cool, the stunning mountain regions invite healthy outdoor living and there is a great sense of welcome and multi-cultural pride. Plus, the golden sun shines on its mountains, valleys and lakes throughout the summer making it, on many fronts, a guaranteed winner.
There are a lot of places to worship in Kosovo, no matter what your belief system. You have ancient Serbian Orthodox monasteries and churches, the famous Ottoman mosques in Pristina , 13 churches alone in the village of Velika Hoca, and of course, there is so much to worship in nature. From the Rugova Canyon to the many peaks over 2,000m in the Prokletije Mountains, with stunning waterfalls and lakes in between. And then, to be truly Kosovar, one must also worship Dionysus, the god of wine. Because with over 270 days of sunshine on its slopes, it’s a country that knows how to embrace its now thankfully happier climes. With wine and more wine.
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NORTH MACEDONIA
Part Balkan, part Mediterranean and rich in Greek, Roman and Ottoman heritage, North Macedonia has a fascinating past and a complex national identity.
Glittering Lake Ohrid and its historic town have etched out a place for North Macedonia on the tourist map, but there is a wealth of natural beauty in this small country.
Dramatic mountains have blissfully quiet walking trails, lakes and riding opportunities. The national parks of Mavrovo, Galičica and Pelister are cultivating some excellent cultural and culinary tourism initiatives; these gorgeous regions are as yet little explored, so if you want to get off the beaten track in Europe – this is the place. Tourist infrastructure is scant, but locals are unfailingly helpful.
Skopje's centre has suffered from a building spree of grotesque faux-neoclassical monuments, buildings and fountains, funded by the previous government. Luckily, its Ottoman old town and buzzing modern areas are untouched and remain charming and authentic.
Its Communist era means that the mountain ranges were untouched by tourism, ancient villages unspoiled by second home ownership, and lake lands undisturbed by jet skis and jet setters. And it is so small, you can hike in the mountains in the morning, saunter around Byzantine beauty in the afternoon, and swim at one of its fine lake beaches at sunset.
In such a small country, cycling takes you into varied terrain quickly and easily, Pedal from the rocky plateaus above Lake Ohrid, and the shores of Lake Prespa, up to traditional mountain villages, where you'll be served mezze style meals with that inimitable mountain/Mediterranean/Middle Eastern mix to fill those hollow legs.
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