WHERE YOUR HOLIDAY STARTS!
THE BALKANS
ALBANIA
Closed to outsiders for much of the 20th century, Albania has long been Mediterranean Europe's enigma. Until fairly recently its rumpled mountains, fortress towns and sparkling beaches were merely a rumour on most travel maps. But, with the end of a particularly brutal strain of communism in 1991, Albania tentatively swung open its gates.
The first curious tourists to arrive discovered a land where ancient codes of conduct still held sway and where the wind whistled through the shattered remnants of half-forgotten ancient Greek and Roman sites. A quarter of a century after throwing off the shackles of communism, Albania's stunning mountain scenery, crumbling castles, boisterous capital, and dreamy beaches rivalling any in the Mediterranean continue to enchant. But hurry here, because as word gets out about what Albania is hiding, the still -tiny trickle of tourists threatens to become a flood.
This forgotten country was once in the middle of great empires – Roman, Greek and Ottoman. Although staunchly communist, it escaped the clutches of the USSR and was instead ruled by its own Stalinist despot. The Accursed Mountains, once the land of blood feuds, rise up in the north, a haven for hikers and cyclists in summer and snow shoers in winter. Ottoman architecture tumbles down a hillside in the Town of a Thousand Windows, the bunker -dotted coastline is lapped by the Mediterranean. With Albanians clamouring to show guests the beauty of their country and culture, we’d put money on this secret not being kept for much longer.
KOSOVO
Europe's newest country, Kosovo is a fascinating land at the heart of the Balkans rewarding visitors with welcoming smiles, charming mountain towns, incredible hiking opportunities and 13th-century domed Serbian monasteries brushed in medieval art – and that's just for starters.
If you want to understand Kosovo, look no further than its Olympic gold medal winner for judo, Majlinda Kelmendi. In the country’s Olympic debut in 2016, this 25 year old did her country proud by taking gold. A beautiful ball of energy, who has survived a war, she is a smiling, determined young woman, with mountain strength. Just like the country she represents. Because Kosovo is not only the newest country in Europe, but also has the youngest population, with over 70 percent under the age of 35. The cities are culturally cool, the stunning mountain regions invite healthy outdoor living and there is a great sense of welcome and multi-cultural pride. Plus, the golden sun shines on its mountains, valleys and lakes throughout the summer making it, on many fronts, a guaranteed winner.
There are a lot of places to worship in Kosovo, no matter what your belief system. You have ancient Serbian Orthodox monasteries and churches, the famous Ottoman mosques in Pristina , 13 churches alone in the village of Velika Hoca, and of course, there is so much to worship in nature. From the Rugova Canyon to the many peaks over 2,000m in the Prokletije Mountains, with stunning waterfalls and lakes in between. And then, to be truly Kosovar, one must also worship Dionysus, the god of wine. Because with over 270 days of sunshine on its slopes, it’s a country that knows how to embrace its now thankfully happier climes. With wine and more wine.
NORTH MACEDONIA
Part Balkan, part Mediterranean and rich in Greek, Roman and Ottoman heritage, North Macedonia has a fascinating past and a complex national identity.
Glittering Lake Ohrid and its historic town have etched out a place for North Macedonia on the tourist map, but there is a wealth of natural beauty in this small country.
Dramatic mountains have blissfully quiet walking trails, lakes and riding opportunities. The national parks of Mavrovo, Galičica and Pelister are cultivating some excellent cultural and culinary tourism initiatives; these gorgeous regions are as yet little explored, so if you want to get off the beaten track in Europe – this is the place. Tourist infrastructure is scant, but locals are unfailingly helpful.
Skopje's centre has suffered from a building spree of grotesque faux-neoclassical monuments, buildings and fountains, funded by the previous government. Luckily, its Ottoman old town and buzzing modern areas are untouched and remain charming and authentic.
Its Communist era means that the mountain ranges were untouched by tourism, ancient villages unspoiled by second home ownership, and lake lands undisturbed by jet skis and jet setters. And it is so small, you can hike in the mountains in the morning, saunter around Byzantine beauty in the afternoon, and swim at one of its fine lake beaches at sunset.
In such a small country, cycling takes you into varied terrain quickly and easily, Pedal from the rocky plateaus above Lake Ohrid, and the shores of Lake Prespa, up to traditional mountain villages, where you'll be served mezze style meals with that inimitable mountain/Mediterranean/Middle Eastern mix to fill those hollow legs.
MONTENEGRO
The land of the Black Mountain, bursting at the seams with majestic mountains, breathtaking beaches and larger-than-life locals, minuscule Montenegro proves once and for all that good things do indeed come in small packages.
It's nigh on impossible to come across a travel section without someone trumpeting Montenegro as the new 'it' destination. And though the country is rightfully revelling in the spotlight, the people remain as they've always been candid, convivial and charming. Unlike in many other emerging destinations, hassling and scamming visitors isn't big on Montenegrins' agenda; for the most part, you're more likely to encounter a spontaneous bear hug than a bothersome tout. Whether you're chasing highland hospitality or coastal comradery, expect gregarious greetings, the shirt off your host's back and the addition of at least 5kg; these folks love to feed.
When the beaches fill up with Eastern European sunseekers, intrepid travellers can easily sidestep the hordes by getting off the beaten track in the rugged mountains of Durmitor and Prokletije, the primeval forest of Biogradska Gora, or in the many towns and villages where ordinary Montenegrins go about their daily lives. Hike, horse ride, mountain bike or kayak yourself to somewhere obscure and chances are you'll have it all to yourself. This is, after all, a country where wolves and bears still lurk in forgotten corners.
Ever since the Roman Empire split in two 1600 years ago, Montenegro has sat on the borderline between east and west. The richness of its cultural history can be seen in the mosaic floors of Roman villas, flamboyantly painted Orthodox monasteries, ornate Catholic churches, elegant minarets of mosques, and the sturdy fortresses built by the numerous powers that have fought over these lands.
CORFU
From the writings of Gerald and Lawrence Durrell to the place where the shipwrecked Odysseus was soothed and sent on his way home, Corfu has been portrayed as an idyll for centuries. Today this reputation has led to parts of the island being defiled by mass tourism, but despite this, the Corfu of literature does still exist. All you need to do is sail around the corner, walk over the next headland or potter about the rugged interior and a place of bountiful produce, cypress-studded hills, vertiginous villages, and sandy coves lapped by cobalt-blue waters awaits.
The whole Corfu town squeezes out a nostalgic charm! You’ll see the glorious past of Corfu on imposing palaces, noble mansions, beautiful museums, and charming squares. Moving away from Corfu Town, you’ll discover picturesque seaside villages, tiny verdant islets, luxurious Corfu resorts, and wild natural landscapes. It’s amazing how the different sides of this idyllic island coexist in harmony!
If you manage to peel yourself away from the enchanting Corfu Town, move to the coasts of Corfu, where beautiful Corfu beaches are nestled! The beaches in Dassia, Paleokastritsa, Glyfada, Kontokali, and Kavos are must-visits. Nestled in sandy coves, surrounded by green forests and mountains, they are some of the best beaches in Greece! As for sightseeing, it’s one of the best things to do in Corfu! The top places to visit in Corfu are Achillion Palace, the former retreat of princess Sissi of Austria, Mon Repos palace, where Phillip, the husband of Queen Elizabeth II was born, the iconic Panagia Vlacherna and Pontikonisi island. They will make you fall even deeper in love with Corfu!
BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA
Beautiful Bosnia and Hercegovina is most intriguing for its East-meets-West atmosphere born of blended Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian histories filtered through a Southern Slavic lens. Many still associate the country with the heart-breaking civil war of the 1990s, and the scars from that time are all too visible. But today's visitors are likely to remember the country for its deep, unassuming human warmth, its beautiful mountains, numerous medieval castle ruins, raftable rivers, impressive waterfalls and bargain-value skiing. Major drawcards include the reincarnated historical centres of Sarajevo and Mostar, counterpointing splendid Turkish-era stone architecture with quirky bars, inviting street-terrace cafes, traditional barbecue restaurants and vibrant arts scenes. There's plenty of interest to discover in the largely rural hinterland too, all at prices that make the country one of Europe's best-value destinations.
Sarajevo, the capital of mountain-rugged Bosnia and Herzegovina, is a charming city reflecting perfect symbiosis of the past and the modern, a bridge between the East and the West. The city itself was established in the 15th century, but dates back to the Neolithic period and ever since it has symbolized the melting pot of various cultures and religions. Indeed, along only a street you will come across a mosque, a synagogue, an orthodox and a catholic church. But the blend continues to more than sacral monuments and the city arrests Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, Socialist and other architectural styles. Sarajevo did become a symbol of the coexistence of communities from different cultural, ethnic and religious backgrounds.
CROATIA
If your Mediterranean fantasies feature balmy days by sapphire waters in the shade of ancient walled towns, Croatia is the place to turn them into reality. Croatia's extraordinary island-speckled coastline is indisputably its main attraction. The first thing that strikes you is the remarkable clarity of the water. When it's set against a dazzling white pebbly beach, the water sparkles with a jewel-like intensity in shades of emerald and sapphire. There are long sandy and shingly stretches too – perfect for lazy days spent lounging and devouring trashy holiday novels. If that all sounds too relaxing, there are water-based activities at hand to lure you off your sun lounger – snorkelling, diving, kayaking, windsurfing and sailing, just for starters.
Precariously poised between the Balkans and central Europe, this land has been passed between competing kingdoms, empires and republics for millennia. If there's an upside to this continual dislocation, it's in the rich cultural legacy that each has left behind. Venetian palaces snuggle up to Napoleonic forts, Roman columns protrude from early Slavic churches, and Viennese mansions face off with Socialist Realist sculpture. Excellent museums showcase treasures that cover the gamut of European history, from the prehistoric to the post communist, telling a story that is in equal parts fascinating and horrifying. Shift your gaze for just a moment from the glittering waters and chances are an almighty mountain will loom into view. The Dinaric Range, which stretches all the way from Italy to Albania, hugs much of the coast. The limestone karst has bequeathed a wonderland of craggy peaks, caverns, river canyons, waterfalls and ridiculously picturesque lakes. Head further inland and things flatten out again into rolling farmland. Active types will find plenty of chances to get among it on the numerous hiking and biking trails, while the more adventurous can have a go at rock climbing, rafting and zip-lining.
If you're lucky enough to cross the tourist/guest barrier and be invited into a local's home, you'll soon become acquainted with the refrain 'Jedi! Jedi! Jedi!' (Eat! Eat! Eat!). Sharing food and drink plays a big part in the culture here, which speaks both to the nature of Croatian hospitality and to the quality of local produce.